Friday, October 24, 2014

The floating markets and waterways of Can Tho.


The previous generation of barges. Decorated in the typical way-Except the very smallest of boats every wooden vessel have eyes in their bow.


Can Tho is the largest city in the Mekong delta. The city itself have only a few minor attractions to boost. The reason to go there are the waterways and a couple of floating markets in the area. Unlike many of the floating markets in Thailand which caters to tourists to some or almost exclusively degree, these markets are the real thing. Locals selling local produce to locals. Simple as that. No tourist knick knacks to be found.

My arrival to the city was one of boiling temper. I had asked for, and been issued a boat ticket. I wanted to get away from the buses. The morning came, my lift to the boat terminal arrived (late) at my hotel. Then i was taken to the boat terminal. Repeating boat terminal-and left there. I presented the ticket where it clearly was written BOAT-only to be told that no this is not a boat ticket-this is a bus ticket. There was no boat. But a minibus pulled up soon after. So after a week plus in Vietnam i can conclude that almost every transaction where a Vietnamese has been involved, there has been some sort of mishap/irregularity. And i start to draw the conclusion most people having spent some time in Vietnam draw.


Gas resupplying on one of the barge gasstations found along all the major waterways. The gas we got was not clean.  There were huge cloths of pure and regular dirt. Luckily easy to remove. The boat lady not happy though. Many of the operators of the small shuttle boats taking tourist on excursions or locals so wherever they need to go-are women.
But at least the first boattrip went smootly. I choosed the Cai Rang market an hour and a half away as my first trip. With a nasty 0500 hours early start. The markets generally are at their best early in the morning-and i wanted to beat the crowds. All tourists visiting go there. I wake up an hour early. And not for a lovely reason. The rain was thundering down so hard i could not hear the fan in my room. But it slowed down in time and when i left it was only a light, light, drizzle. It dried up and i saw no more rain on the boat.

We went down the main channel, lined with stilthouses with a backdrop of more upmarket buildings. Along the banks were vessels of all kinds-ranging from large barges some so filled they looked ready to sink, to tiny rowingboats not able to carry two people. The fishermen were active already, but mostly there was little activity.

Waiting barges.

A fisherman puts out his net, Elegantly handling the net with one hand, the boatmanouvering with the other.

It took us an hour and a half to get to the market. The only tourist fuzz being refreshment boats coming up to us-something they do to every arriving boat anyway. It is the biggest market in the area-probably in the whole delta, with a lot of larger motorized vessels. At this market, the typical standing up rowing boats are a minority-but not absent. Yet. For sale here is food-vegetarian products. For some reason no fish or meat. The vendors announces their product, or range of products, by hanging samples on a pole. A nice thing with this market is that you come there without being hassled. The locals on their side go on with their business. Mostly ignoring your presence, Unless you greet them first.





Decorated sterns.
"Melons here! The best of melons here!"








When we left the market, we went first a little bit towards Can Tho, before breaking left heading into the secondary waterways.
The riverside.

A brick barge moored along one of the secondary canals. Many of the houses looks a lot better than along the main river. 
Along some stretches there are "fences" of poles. Used to attach nets.

A visit to the Fruit Garden of which i had no previous knowledge about. A restaurant set in a fruit garden. I only looked at the place, though.


Going trough a narrow tertiary channel.

Sort of an obstacle. A fisherman has lowered his big net where we need to go.  It is fast and easy to get up.

A very local bridge!
A cork in the waterway, A mix of garbage and water plants. The propeller get stopped all the time.
The end of the line. A brick vessel occupies the whole waterway. Intending to do so for a long time. Our only choice was to return the same way we had come.




One of the many riverside sawmills and timber landing points.

One thing i would never accuse the captain of: Sailing with too little cargo!!



The money begins 50 meters behind the river.

One of the ferries crossing the  river, doing the job of a bridge.
Streetside sale of snails.

The riverside green lung. Hot in the midday hat. Very pleasant in the evenings.

Ho Chi Minh.

The Ong Temple.






Seeing very few signs geared to ease my understanding-i am delighted that this one clearly sends across the message.


In one of Can Tho's working backstreets. I am sort of impressed over how this guy get a sound sleep where he does. Doubt if i could copy him.
It comes as no surprise there are shops dealing with "everything boat-istic".


Fishing, with a big net in front of the moving boat.
Second trip-to the Phong Dien market. This time rain got me. It just started, Time to get the camera into it watertight bag before it REALLY starts!


At least a part time home. With all that follows.

Arriving at the Phong Dien market. Small motorboats and the old fashioned standing up rowing boats is the name of the game.












A merchant puts away bundle upon bundle of cash.
My second cruise on the small waterways. Early morning tasks.






Laundrywork on a riverbarge.


My second boatlady. A tiny, lovely person.


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