Fumes, tranquil quarters and streetfood. Ahmedabad in a nutshell.

Ahmedabad, the Largest city in Gujarat state looked at first eyesight as a not very promising destination. To begin with, big streets packed with honking vehicles and laced in fumes what was I saw. But i soon came beyond that. There are a couple of spots with an interesting street life. Then there are the pols. Walled neighbourhoods-like separate villages within the city. The reason for organize things this way was self protection. It formed a not easily invaded compound and the entrance was guarded. They also had secret passageways from one pol to another-many are still in use and it is said it is possible to walk from one end of the pol city to the other without ever leaving the pol area only by using those passageways. You are free to visit the pols on your own-but it is possible-and recommended-to take a guided heritage walk. I went with the walk organized from an office just outside the Swaminaryam temple, and the guide-a woman, something not often seen in India-pointed out some interesting details one might otherwise have missed. The route we followed i wouldn't even have been able to find myself as it went to some hidden and not at all obvious passageways.

Painted arches in the Swaminaryam temple. It is surrounded by a large havelli-accommodation for pilgrims. It is located in a predominantly moslem area, but it appears to be communal harmony. Unusual for temples in lowland India, wood is an important element in the structure.

The cyclist is heading for the entrance gate to a pol. The house over it was used as a guard post. Back in the days, strangers were generally not let into the pols.

Originally every pol had at least one of these bird feeding towers, many are gone, but many are still in use. Bird towers are a common sight in Gujarat. Many temples have one, and I've also seen them other places. Another thing every pol have in its most Central courtyard, is a blackboard where relevant information is written. People check it daily.

More unique to the pols are these birdnests-pots fitted into the walls. I was lucky to get this bird to demonstrate it to me at the right moment.

She is entering a secret passageway we just exited. On the other side there is a door looking like it leads into a home.

The ordered block of factory made ice arrives.

Streetside gambling.

In the Sidi Saiyed mosque is this depiction of the tree of life, a motif often seen in India. It is one of the finest yali windows around. An excellent piece of filigreestonecarving. One of several in this mosque. They are a common feature in old buildings and widows like this is carved out of a single piece of stone. Built in 1573, the mosque itself is one of Ahmedabads oldest and is a small but peacefull and easily overlooked oasis near a busy junction. Worth mentioning-even women can explore unhindered there-providing they are dressed for it.

Resting away the mid day heat in the Sidi Saiyed mosque.

Delicate carvings at the small and ancient Rani Sipri mosque. It was put into use in 1514. This is an example of cross cultural influence-this carving remind more of what one see in jain temples than what one normally would expect to see in a mosque.

An oddity-mirror covered sweets destined as religious offerings.

The streets surrounding the big and much visited Jama Masjid is a busy market area where you can find everything. Fruit, spices. All sorts of religious items of several faiths. Clothing, household utensils....

Outside a court building independent typewriters offer their services to people in need of all kinds of documents.

In lieu of the bulls.

A Temple elephant cruise the streets looking for alms.

The Muslim neighbourhoods near the Swaminaryam temple is good for people watching. The local residents are friendly and not overrun by tourists. This is a drumming machine i found outside an instrument shops. In that area there are many of them, and they also make them there.

A must do excursion is to the Adalaj step well 18 kilometers out of town It is a place which looks more like a an underground palace or temple than a place to fetch water. Gujarat-and neighbouring Rajasthan are dry states with little surface water around. Wells were a "to be or not to be" factor, and for those in power, building one, meant doing religious merit as well as getting political goodwill. Many of the stepwells were simple affairs. This one became an artgallery filled with superb stonecarvings.

One of the many "dollhouse"mosques found all over Gujarat.

Leaving Ahmedabad. The mainroad outside the city was blocked because of a serious traffic accident so for a long while we used small countryside roads. The driver actually had to ask for the way and the bus  was so big in the villages it only passed corners with the clearance of a few centimeters. Here the conductor had to climb to the roof, lifting low hanging electrical cables.