Saturday, October 4, 2014

Phongsali trekking.

The Phongsali area is a trekkers paradise. It is relatively remote so many travellers never make it there. It is beautifull and it has a lot of that Nat Geo style tribal villages. In total making a trek very rewarding for those taking the effort of going there.

Dinner at Laoper restaurant. Somewhat expensive, but delicious. A series of ingredients are ready for eating, you choose which ones you want. We were 4 around the table. One swizz guy i met on the bus from Muang Khua. We joined forces at the Pak Nam Noi junction where we, awaiting transport up to Phongsali-joined forces over beer and fried bugs of various kinds. Then there was a french couple we had no problem convincing to share a trek. It is important here-more important than in some other places because of the high cost of trekking with guide. Not because it has to be-but because the state (read those deep pockets getting their fill from the tourist sector) levy high taxes on the trekking companies. The private ones that is. The tourist information (which never opened during our stay) have cheaper treks-but they pay less tax (public money directly to the....state) and can keep the prices somewhat down.
In Phongsali i found this socialist style poster. It tells nothing about corruption-sorry-commissions or the elitist leadership ruling the country/filling their own pockets.
A little on the young and small side-but the attitude and bravery is there.

The first village seen from above


The following morning we were driven by the trailhead south of Phongsali. The road go high above the valley and we got to see how the green mountains pierced the dense fog carpet covering the valleys. Like green islands in a milky ocean. Then it was walking. Downhill, mostly in the beginning, until we reached a Hmong tribe village. After lunch it was up-up-up. A long way up. Trough farmland and jungle on slippery trails.



Drums outside the Buddhist temple. One of its uses is as an alarm. When somethings happens, somebody will beat the drum and everyone present in the village will show up.

Hmong children at play. Their tools being simple.

Shit for us. Manna from heaven for these mineral licking butterflies.



A school bell.

Returning from a hunting trip to the forest, with a gun reminding of something from 200 years ago.


Not the golden gate. It was swinging and complaining-but it works. Just watch up for a couple of holes which may trap your feet.

A simple waterpipe made of bamboo. The tobacco used in it being very strong.

Giggly young ladies.

After a long walk in drizzling rain, some motorized transport. Called Tok Tok, they are the mode of public transportation for many remote living Laotians.


Akha woman in a market.







A small reptile trusted its camouflage a bit too much. I was without any problem able to hand catch it "Steve Irwin"style for a closer look.

Pretty flowers in a world of green leafs.

Pretty, a bit sour but fully edible fruits.

After a long uphill, and then downhill hike on slippery trails and paths we finally can see our destination. A small, steep Akha village. All were ready for a shower-to be done at the communal washing place at the bottom of the village. To the amusement of the locals of both sexes. afterwards, dinner with one of the village families-complete with a few shots of laolao.





Dinner around a low table. We were sitting on tiny wooden stools.

It is early in the morning. It has been raining like crazy for hours. The main street is a river. I am needy  and the toilet is on the other side of the stream. As I position myself over the hole in the ground-a pig arrives, ready to check out my business.


A cluster bomb shell has started a new and better life.





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