Along the Nam Ou.

Nong Khiaw's riverside skyline-with towering karst mountains in the background. The little town, with plenty of rural charm is strung along both sides of the Nam Ou river in northern Laos. Despite its remoteness, both the food and the accommodation is decent there. Getting there is easy enough-buses run all the way to Luang Prabang, to Luang Namtha and to Udomxai. My plan was to go upriver to villages further upstream, but first i enjoyed a day of biking in in the area surrounding  Nong Khiaw.

View upriver, direction Muang Ngoi village, from the middle of the 1973 vintage bridge connecting the riverbanks. In the evenings, the bridge seems to be a local hangout for the youth.

First i took a trip to Thew Pha tok caves, two holes in the rock 2 kilometers from the bridge. They were set in a spectacular, vegetation covered karstcliff surrounded by rice fields. I was pestered by some would be guides that is not at all needed there. The caves itself aren't that spectacular-the trip here and the imminent surroundings is what makes the easy trip out there worthwhile. However, it is history embedded in them-they were used for shelter during the bombings of the Indochina wars. Villagers and Pathet lao fighters both used it, and remains of their commandopost is still visible inside.

Next, i headed up the dirtroad which is bulldozed up along the eastern bank. It goes up and down, it is muddy and slippery in the rainy season, and there are some potholes to watch out for, but it is fairly easy going. If Nong Khiaw feels remote, then wait till you get out to the small villages along the road. They are outside the map-for them tiny Nong Khiaw is the big world, and everybody coming from even further afield-meaning all tourists-are met with curiosity-of the friendly kind.

I was passed up by people all of the time. Some took a break from housebuilding. Others looking up from repairing and the making of fishing nets. A shopkeeper woke up from his semi sleep. And as always children were cheering and greeting. Many only can say BYEBYE-so that is the usual way for them to say hello. And, of course-bye-bye.

A break in a fishermans home. His daughter posing. A simple bamboo hut on stilts. The TV set , and the satellite dish outside looks somewhat out of place. Lot of people have a TV, and even some sort of a music playing device. But that is generally all they have above the most elementary and basic of things. They are not rich. I spent a good part of the hottest hours in his home, eating fruit-sponsored by him, and drunk beer-sponsored by me. Semi hot beer from the village shop. Not a daily luxury for any of the villagers.

The TV shows karaoke texted musicvideos. Many with the war as a theme and made with a typical socialist-communist style to it. I didn't catch anything of the texts except in this one where B52 and F111 was mentioned. Two aircrafts whose life in these parts were unpleasant for the locals. History is very much alive in Laos.

The following morning i went to the dock to get the morning boat upriver to Muang Ngoi village. But no boat. I had to wait till noon. And while there were too few passengers in the morning-noon saw too many of them-the boat was filled top the brim with cargo and passengers. Tourists and locals alike. I was lucky with the weather-not always the case in the rainy season-so the trip up was amazing. The river goes trough a landscape of towering mountains and lush green jungle. It is as spectacular as it is beautifull.

Female porters at the docks, carrying cargo down to the 12 o clock upriver boat. The boattrip is one hour plus. Muang Ngoi now has got a road connecting it to Nong Khiaw but traveltime along it is 2-3 hours. Or more in the rainyseason. Time being, the boat is how people travel. But it is a matter of time before that change.

The jetty, bamboo and floating elements.

A young boatman.

In Muang Ngoi, the boat was met by a handful of guesthouse owners eager to get guests. There are many guesthouses there now, and a few early closing eating places. But it is low key, and the atmosphere here is that of the Laotian countryside. For most people, life passes as it has always done. Not surprisingly-farming and fishing is what keeps people alive.

A fisherman work on his net in the mainstreet of Muang Ngoi. 

A shop along the mainstreet. A smell of gasoline filled the place-rows of bottles filled with gasoline are lined up for sale. Here you get everything from fuel to beer. Everything from fishinghooks to mosquitonets.

not only shops along the mainstreet, some do the weaving as well.

A working elephant has been scrubbed in the river and leave the village.

Muang Ngoi is a great base for hiking. The surrounding area is beautifull, and there are a few interesting villages out there. Heading out of Muang Ngoi you first come to the Tham Kang cave, out of it flows a small river and there is a nice little pool outside it. Commonly used by locals to bathe in. Inside the cave is another, more secluded bathingspot.

Inside the Tham Kang cave. Crystal clear water with shining stones and small fishes. A great place to take a refreshing dip in the rainy season. Some daylight reaches in so it is not far away from the outside world.

The area surrounding the cave is rich in small creatures-attractive butterflies....

....and some rather strange creatures.

Some enjoy my sweating feet. This was before i dipped in the cave....

Just after the cave, ricecountry begins for real. Big areas of neatly built ricefields, now mostly waterfilled, ready to be planted. Water is everywhere, sharply reflecting the sunshine.

There are large ricegrowing areas, and people were busy working them. Here they are planting rice.

Transporting the riceplants to the planters.

Ba Na village. Remote, yet accessible. There is a place to eat (and get drunk on the local tipple) and an ultrabasic place to stay.

School Holiday.

Many villages are not connected to the grid, some have got their own locally made powerplant instead.

Around Kampot.

Kampot itself is a nice town to relax for a day or two, here I sat down a full afternoon doing nothing-except drinking draught beer. One dollar for a 1,3 liter, ice cold jar. But there are things worth visiting in the surrounding area. I did a couple of days exploring the surrounding area.

Kep is a resort town, and usually not a place I would spend time. But i found one good reason to go here: Food! In the outskirt of town is the crab market where one have a few choices-barbecued seafood is the most obvious one.....

.....Then there are the crabs which one can buy fresh and alive and have boiled there and then for immediate consumption. They are kept alive in cages out in the sea.

Selecting the best crabs for the occasion. 5 dollars per kilo was the price my driver got me-they were very unwillingly to go below 7 dollars for a white faced customer.

The crabboiler. She had a constant flow of customers. Her service will set you back another 2000 riels. While waiting, I secured a coupe of cans of beer. Then heading down to the beach for a little fiest of crab and beer. Perfect way of lunching. And delicious.

The province is known since colonial times for Kampot pepper, a mild, flavour rich type which was a must on every french restaurant table. There are several plantations reachable from Kampot where one can have a look-and buy pepper directly from the source itself. Cambodian pepper has been produced at least since the 13th century, the modern production only started around 1870.

Still small but growing.

Everybody does it-taking a trip up to the Bokor hill station. Here is a look down on the flat Kampot surroundings from a lookout stop high above the plains.

The Bokor hillstation a 40 kilometers drive from Kampot along a steep, twisting road, was constructed in the early 1920'es as a chilly retreat for the french colonialists. The construction of the road from the lowland, and the station itse4lf went fast-to the cost of some 900 of lives. An average of more than 3 each day. Bokor had a hotel, a casino. A police station and everything needed for a working village. The place was abandoned for good in 1972 when Khmer Rouge arrived and took control over the area. It wasn't until the early 1990'es before they was driven out. The area then battle scarred and infested with mines. Those are now cleared away. Most of the buildings are gone, but a few, iconic buildings still stands. There have been several failed attempts of bringing the place back to life. But the attempt now underway is heading in a more successfull direction. Not such a good thing, since the area is in the middle of a nationalpark. The area is like a huge building place and when everything is finished the nationalpark aspect will be dead and buried. In Cambodia, money talks. Not in the form of corruption as there are none in Cambodia-there are only commissions and gifts....big ones.

Road maintainance. Heating bitumen for crackrepairs.

The former royal resort, now an empty shell surrounded by grass, brush and pretty flowers. The remains of the former garden.

Interior of the royal lodge-with an non-royal graffiti.

A green tree set against a backdrop of incoming fog.

The Lok Yeay Mao monument,  where travellers often sacrifice something for good luck on the journey.

A rock formation beside the monument.

Not my idea of a nationalpark. A huge, modern casino in the hills.

Near the casino, an old pagoda-offering great views over the lowlands directly below us.

Now an empty shell, once somewhere the french had their service. Bokor hillstations catholic church.

The old Bokor Palace Hotel, now cleaned up inside. The building is planned to be used again. But for now it is  an empty, and spooky place said to be haunted. The fog arrived at the same time as we did-making it even spookier. I wouldn't say there is much to see up there. It is very little, actually. Still, in spooky fogginess there is something special about the place.

Many a champagne and Vin Rouge have been enjoyed near this fireplace.

In the Phnom Chhnork cave-having a 7th century Shiva temple in it.

A natural linga inside the temple.

The cow head.

Kampot countryside. Close to town,  yet a world apart.

Time for a break. Bananas fried in a dough with sesame seeds.

In Phnom Sorsia. No temple inside, only statues.

Opening in the roof at Phnom Sorsia. At the same pace there is a big, smelly bat cave.

A small girl crushing sugarcanes for juice. I had pity and crushed my own, she had to hang in the bars of the wheels, her body weight not really being enough to do the trick.